Yummy Yummy

When I talk about meals in China, one word comes to mind....feast.  The Chinese love food.  We as Americans generally small talk about the weather, but the Chinese talk about food.  When we encounter a familiar face we usually say, "How are you?'. However, the Chinese will ask, " Chi fan le ma?"  which means, "Have you eaten?"  Breakfast, lunch and dinner are to be eaten at specific times.  Breakfast usually consists of noodles in a broth with spices and meat for flavoring.  Hot beef flavored noodles do not whet my appetite at 8 a.m. so I opt for bread with peanut butter or a yogurt with fruit.  I typically eat lunch at school.  The food is served family style which is very common for the Chinese.  When going to eat at a restaurant, one or two people will choose several dishes for the entire table to share.  There is sometimes a giant lazy susan in the middle of the table so all of the dishes can be reached.  Common dishes in this region include, egg with tomato, green beans with sausage, corn with sausage, bitter melon (aptly named) with chicken, bamboo shoots with chicken, tofu with tomato, green water spinach, mushrooms, cabbage, and RICE... always rice.  The dishes vary by region and season. The food is pretty good and it is free which makes it taste even better.  For dinner, I typically steer clear of Chinese and go to town for Western food.  I don't care for Chinese food in the US, but I think it is fantastic here.  It is true that the Chinese eat virtually every kind of meat. Thus, I like to ask "What is this?", before I pop it in my mouth.  The Chinese also do not waste any food.  They eat pigs' feet and chicken feet -which I have now tried- pig ears, pig snout, etc.  Also, the meat is usually just chopped with a large knife so picking bones out of the dish is a part of life. Snacks are a huge element of daily life as well.  Between almost every class, the children go visit the ice cream stand or "Mr. Hello"- a local shop owner who always says hello to passersby- for some type of snack.  That equates to about 6 snacks a day, excluding evening snacks.  China is more or less a self sustaining country in terms of food.  This equates to a consistent supply of delicious, locally-grown fruits and vegetables. There are several markets around town and road side stands that sell fruits and veggies.  There are also fresh meat markets that have everything you can imagine -fish, turtles, frogs, duck, chicken, and much more.  Experiencing the food in China has its ups and downs.  Food is an expression of culture, and I have loved having the opportunity to eat and learn.

Wedding Bells

In June, I was honored with an invitation to a colleague's wedding.  First, I was thrilled to have the opportunity to celebrate her joyous occasion.  Also, a wedding is an interesting and important cultural event which reveals traditions and beliefs that one might not be aware of otherwise.  One day, I walked in the office and was informed that my friend and colleague was married.  There was no engagement time, no anticipation, none of the build up in which Americans revel.  There was not a ceremony, a formality often skipped in this area of China.  Instead, the couple hosted guests at a reception, which was very familiar.  The newlyweds greeted guests as we walked into the venue.  We handed them money wrapped in lucky red envelopes as we passed.  Our seats were assigned, and small snacks were offered on each table along with bottles of wine, baijiu (rice wine), beer, and sodas.  The couple was announced and walked through the venue beaming with happiness.  The couple stopped at the front at which time a women with a microphone said some words, which I did not understand.  The couple went through a few traditional bows and exchanges.  Then dinner was served and the bride changed from a white to a pink gown.  It was an enormous meal served family style, of course.  After dinner, the couple walked through the crowd with small cups of baijiu and toasted with each guest.  Immediately after dinner, the guests began to leave.  Unlike the majority of weddings I have attended in the US, there was no dancing or cake cutting.  The couple exited soon after dinner as well.  The wedding was an enlightening and fun experience, one which I am very happy to have had.

Tai Gui Le

(Yi Jiao - the equivalent of a penny)

This is Chinese for "Too expensive!", and I utter these words at least 3 times a day, not because things are actually expensive but because it is the norm in China to be overcharged. The general procedure when going shopping is as follows...1. Go to a "store".  A store may be a small booth or room crammed full of items with seemingly no organization or thought behind placement, things are stacked from the floor to the ceiling, there are the most bizarre and random items for sale, and most of it is poor quality. This can be tiresome or amazing depending on the amount of time you have to look.  2. Try to find (almost always unsuccessfully) the item you need. 3. Ask the salesperson for what you need.  This usually involves translating via a friend or iPhone.  They always laugh when you get out the iPhone (a very expensive item in China) and then bargain with them. 4. Ask the salesperson how much the item costs. 5. Start the bargaining process. Bargaining is a way of life and a true art form which takes time and patience to master. In February, I was a complete amateur bargainer. I was desperate for things - like a space heater, a toboggan, gloves - and I could not speak the language. This combo led to paying top dollar without question. The other part of the equation is that top dollar is only a few US dollars so it is easy to believe you are getting a good deal. The fact is...
You are getting ridiculously, unbelievably, royally ripped off.
It is very common for locals to ask- how much did you pay for that? Then laugh and tell you how badly you were taken to the cleaners.  After a few weeks (once my survival needs had been met), I got pretty angry about being ripped off and decided I would not take it any more. I went from no argument whatsoever to.... well, the complete opposite. No one was going to take advantage of me! A common strategy in bargaining is walking away. This works like a charm, when used correctly. My issue was timing. They would give a price, and I would scoff, throw out a ridiculously low offer, and when they  declined I would walk away. I would walk slowly, thinking they would see the light and call me back. Wrong. I would glance back to see if they were thinking about my offer. They weren't. 
After about 3 months here, I am finally getting the hang of it. It is a game which can be great fun once you learn to play. I am still studying the art of bargaining. I have much to learn, but I can at least enjoy the learning process now. I realized it is a way of life, not a personal attack. And it is all a part of adapting to and living in China.

Common bargaining lingo...
Pian Yi- cheaper
Da zhe- discount 
No money- A typical response to my offer, meaning my offer is so low it equates to a loss 
Lady- what I am called as I walk away, as in "Lady, lady come back. 20 for you."
Tai gui le- too expensive
Duo shao qian? - How much does it cost?

Nice Rice

Who knew rice could be so beautiful?? The rice terraces in Longsheng are among the most awe inspiring sights I have ever seen.  The journey to Longsheng required two bus rides, two taxis, and a guided hike, but it was well worth it.  The plan was to make it to the terraces for sunset, but the travel time was about twice what our group of optimists had planned.  The ride to the terraces was breathtaking.  I was twisting and turning, making a futile attempt to take photos of the scenery speeding by.  When we arrived, a woman in traditional Mao dress (see picture) with a child strapped to her back led us up what seemed like a million stairs to her hotel.  We were happy to have a place to put our bags down and catch our breath.  Because we had no idea how long the bus ride would be, we hadn't eaten for about 8 hours and were starving. We made our way into town by ascending and descending endless staircases.  The town is built into the mountains, and as I walked through the "streets"I felt as though I were in a maze, but I did not want to find my way out.  In the morning, we set our alarms for sunrise...we girls gave ourselves 20 minutes to get ready, the boys gave themselves 1 minute.  We met in the lobby and took off up the stairs to the viewing point. I took hundreds of pictures as the sun sleepily made its way to the top of the mountain.  Not only was this place insanely beautiful, it was mesmerizing to see people working on the terraces.  We slowly made our way back to town for a quick bite to eat, then did our own thing for a while.  My thing was cruising around town.  I saw some chickens while I was out and about and I took several pictures.  I also took some videos of the town which I will attempt to upload.  We headed back to Yangshuo that afternoon... tired but content.  If you are ever in China...check out the rice, it is very nice!

Shang-high Life

Shanghai was a wonderful respite from the realities of living in a fairly rural part of China.  Am I saying I spoiled myself while in Shanghai?  That's exactly what I am saying-just living the high life.  First, let's talk food.  Upon arrival in Shanghai, I left the train and headed to the metro.  When I entered the metro station, I caught a whiff of a sweet, familiar smell.  My eyes scanned the station for the source of goodness.  Then I saw it, the "Texas Stop Sign".  I think you all know what I am talking about....the DQ.  I was strong and didn't make a purchase - not even a blizzard.  Don't ask me how I resisted.  Although I was strong in that moment, it wasn't long before I caved.  I had amazing meals in Shanghai, from bratwurst to guacamole, Pizza Hut (where you can order your pizza with rice) to Subway, and of course a daily Starbucks.  Next...shopping.  Shanghai is an international metropolis so, naturally, good shopping is easy to come by.  I particularly enjoyed buying a few dresses from H&M for the warm weather. Since moving to China I have spent so little money that I felt as though I was breaking the bank when I went shopping, even with H&M's reasonable prices. In Yanghsuo, where I teach, I usually spend less than $10/day.  So buying a $30 dress was a bit unsettling.   The currency is the yuan, renminbi or kuai - same thing just different names - I usually say kuai (pronounced kwi - rhymes with sky) because it rolls off the tongue nicely, and it is the most popular among locals. The current exchange rate is about $1USD = 6.3 kuai.  In Yanghsuo, I can buy an enormous and delicious meal for 8 kuai which is $1.26. In Shanghai, I paid a bit more than that for dinner, but it was well worth it.  I met up with some friends in Shanghai, including my new apartment mate, Hannah - which made my time there even more enjoyable.  Overall, Shanghai was unforgettable, inspiring, indulgent and fun.  I will always have fond memories of this incredible city.

Moon Hill

I spent Friday afternoon at one of the "must-see" spots in Yangshuo.  The mountain is called Moon Hill because it has a hole in the middle that resembles the moon.  I biked to the hill which was not a beautiful ride at all.  When I arrived at the gate, I was shocked to be greeted by an old lady trying to sell me stuff. If you have never been to China, you may not have picked up on my sarcasm.  In China, there is an old lady trying to sell you something everywhere you go.  These are not your typical old ladies either.  They drink a B-12 shake in the morning and eat raw eggs in the afternoon or something along those lines.  These ladies are fast - I have seen one chase down a man on a bike.  They are strong - carrying around boxes or coolers all day.  Most importantly, they are persistent.  "NO" is not in their vocabulary.  The rebuttal is their forte.  I have never been so beat down by another human being as I have by these old lady sales people (OLSP).  They are good.  Despite my refusal, this kind OLSP gave me directions up the hill.  For a while, I thought she might have sabotaged me since I turned down her overpriced water and wrinkled postcards, but she gave accurate, brief directions which only included the words "Left. No right. Left".  The walk up took around 30 minutes.  As I began to tire, I looked up and saw a girl wearing 5 inch stiletto heels (see blurry picture) walking up the mountain.  What a woman!!  She inspired me to push ahead despite my burning muscles.  When I reached the top, I had an AHHHHH moment.  The view was spectacular.  You wouldn't believe it if I told you, but there was another OLSP at the top of the mountain with same goods as number one but even more persistence:) I spent some time at the top, soaking in the scenery and taking photos.  Then I clambered back down the hill.  I did not fall even once this time.  I was very proud.  It was a wonderful afternoon on Moon Hill.

Springtime in China

I am happy to report the weather has warmed up significantly and it is officially springtime in Yangshuo.  I am no longer wearing my blanket as an extra layer under my coat, and I even put on flip flops for the first time since I left Houston.  This was a major victory.   Spring in China is fabulous.  I will let the photos speak for themselves.

Back to Basics

I spent the past weekend in Hezhou, a town about two hours east of Yangshuo, teaching students in primary school.  I had a wonderful experience working with these little ones.  They were very well behaved and very excited to meet a foreign person as they have only ever seen other Chinese people. I felt like a rockstar because the students ran alongside the car as we drove up.  When I got out of the car, they would gasp and say, "Cool!" and "Wow!". They followed me everywhere I went but were all too shy to talk to me one-on-one. When I entered the room, the entire class would burst into applause.  The teachers at the school videotaped me and took a million pictures of the children and me.  I have to admit, I liked the rockstar treatment!:)  But more than being "famous", I loved being with the kids.   I taught the students about colors, animals and how to pronounce the letters"th".  Then we would play games together or sing a song - my fave!  It was an absolute blast.  I was given an offer to come back once a month so I hope to see these sweet faces again soon.

Cycling the Yulong

Sunday, February 19th, 2012

Staying at the Giggling Tree Hostel is like a little piece of heaven.  I love having the comforts of home and meeting great new people, like the family in the photo.  Jeff (taking the picture), Maria and Steve are from Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.  I met them at breakfast and they generously offered to bring me along on their cycling/rafting trip on the Yulong River.  The ride was bumpy but fun.  Maria and I shared stories as we rode through small villages saying “Ni hao” to the people we passed.  We were accosted by a pack of old women selling the flower crowns we are all wearing.  Everyone but Jeff bought one, and the lady chased after him as far as she could run. The bamboo raft ride was very peaceful and provided views that make you say “ahhhh”.    

Climbing Hills

Wednesday, February 29th, 2012

There are many hills in Yanghsuo, actually they are called karst peaks, and some are more like mountains than hills.  I climbed two of the many this week.  They have stairs to help those of us who are lacking in the surefooted area, but that did not stop me from falling 3 times on the way down. Despite the burning muscles, the shortness of breath and the bruised knees, the climb was absolutely worth it.  The view from the top is unreal. My adventure in China can be related to climbing these peaks.  There are real challenges everyday, sometimes even painful ones, but the payoff is tenfold. Also, as I climb these hills, I have begun to realize how each of the challenges is making me a better, stronger person. There are many more hills to come... both kinds, and I am ready to keep climbing.       

XiJie School

Monday, February 27th, 2012

I teach English in Yangshuo, China for XiJie Foreign Language School.  My students range in age from 16-25 and range in behavior from compliant to impish.  The students are training for careers in sales, merchandising, and receptionist positions.  I love my school and the challenges/rewards I have each day.  I hope that I can make a difference in the lives of my students, even if it is a small one.  I have 18 classes per week as well as English Corner on Wednesday night. I have Chinese lessons three days a week and am quickly learning the fundamentals of the language.  The director and the other teachers have been very kind to me, and I am happy to be teaching here...even if there are a few little devils.